On Leave In Kochi
22 May 2009
The first port visit of Northern Trident 2009 (NT09) offered the ships’ companies of HMA Ships Sydney and Ballarat not only the opportunity to strengthen ties between the Indian and Australian Navies, but the chance to experience the rich culture and cuisine of the Southern Indian port city of Kochi. As those taking leave in Kochi soon discovered, the city is one of surprising and varied experiences.
“Negotiating for a tuk-tuk ride into the old fort of Kochi was challenging, but we ended up with a great driver who showed us around the temples and spice markets. Along the way he told us all about the centuries old city,” said Leading Seaman Combat Systems Operator Cassandra Morris.
Due to its position on the Southern Indian Coast, Kochi has a strong tradition as a busy trading port for items such as spices and coconut products.
“On the second day of leave I got up early for a ‘backwaters’ boat tour and a visit to the mountain Elephant Training Camp, where elephants live and train for temple ceremonial duties. A group of us helped wash the baby elephants in the river,” said Petty Officer Writer, Catherine Harvey.
“For lunch on the tour we sampled local delicacies at the home of an Indian family. A day in the lush jungle and quiet rivers was such a contrast to the bustling city we saw the previous day,” said PO Harvey.
Back in the city, sites of particular interest to the Seaman Officers on NT09 are those connected to the great navigator Vasco de Gama. Vasco de Gama was the Commander of the first European ship to navigate from Europe to India around the Cape of Good Hope; it was this journey which ultimately opened up a direct sea route to Asia and eventually Australia. Vasco de Gama died in Kochi on Christmas Eve in 1524 and was buried at the St. Francis Church, in the old Fort Kochi area. Ballarat’s Navigator, Seaman Officer LEUT Gavin Gillin paid homage to the great man with a visit to the church and also the town square on the waterfront named in Vasco de Gama’s honour.
“The principles he developed in his exploration of the globe are still in use today. When navigating the world on our NT09 voyage we may be using more sophisticated means of processing the information, but essentially we are employing the same methods that allowed Vasco de Gama to be the first European to set foot in India,” said LEUT Gillin.
Vasco de Gama Square is also the site of Kochi’s famous Chinese fishing nets. The nets are in a fixed position and are lowered into the water at the change of tide. They are unique to this part of India and owe their existence to the early spice trade established between Kochi and China many centuries ago.
“We were there during the day so it wasn’t the best time to see the nets in action but the quiet fishing period meant that the local fishermen were only too happy to let us have a go at lowering the nets and pulling them back up. This proved to be harder than it looked, especially in the humid conditions,” said Seaman Officer, SBLT Liam Walters.
To escape the heat and humidity the Officers and Sailors made good use of local restaurants where they sampled genuine Indian meals and beverages. Some items like Beef Vindaloo were well known from trips to their local Indian take away, but others like the coconut based curries which are a speciality of the local region, provided a whole new taste experience.
Another popular past time was relaxing at the hotel pools and day spas. After 12 days at sea, enjoying the sunshine on dry land was high on the priority list of many. The Kerala province, where Kochi is located, is recognised for its natural therapy and massage treatments. For many of the girls onboard Sydney and Ballarat, a massage and beauty treatment perfumed by the local spices of Kochi was a highlight of their time in India, leaving them relaxed and ready to again take to the ocean for the next leg of their NT09 adventure.
