Publication:The Fearless Times Issue 3 2009/Aqaba, Jordan - The Jewel of the Red Sea
In October Toowoomba became the first RAN ship to visit Aqaba, Jordan in more than 15 years. This was an amazing experience and definitely one of the highlights of the deployment.
The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is home to approximately 6.3 million people. Geographically, the nation lies in the centre of the Levant, an area of great interest and significant historical and strategic importance. This is because Jordan shares its borders with Syria in the North, Iraq to the North East, Saudi Arabia to the South East, the Gulf of Aqaba in the Red Sea to the South West, and Israel and the West Bank to the West.
In the Gulf of Aqaba, just 12 nautical miles separates the coasts of Egypt and Israel to the West and Saudi Arabia and Jordan in the East. This was the backdrop we berthed at the Royal Jordanian Naval Base, Aqaba. The impressive scenery comprises towering escarpments and a rugged coastline with beautiful sandy beaches and crystal clear blue seas.
Twenty-four hours prior to arriving in Aqaba, HMAS Toowoomba hosted Commander Joint Task Force 633 MAJGEN Mark Kelly AO and the Australian Ambassador to Jordan, His Excellency Mr Glenn White. Both arrived by helo and spent a rare night at sea. He and MAJGEN Kelly, enjoyed the opportunity to be hosted for meals in each of the messes. Breakfast in the Junior Sailor's Café was the highlight.
The arrival in Aqaba coincided with Toowoomba’s fourth birthday. A magnificent birthday cake, prepared by ABCK Thomas Hood was cut by the youngest sailor ABCK Barton, with the Commanding Officer. Toowoomba's birthday was also celebrated at an Official Reception held onboard the same night. Toowoomba shared her birthday with six-year-old Aisha Grace. The Grace family, originally from Australia, now reside in Jordan as dad Steve is the Director of Water Sports for The Jordanian Royal Household. The CO presented a Ship's ball cap to Aisha as a birthday gift.
After the official duties were completed, the Ship's Company embraced the opportunity to explore Aqaba and surrounding areas including Petra, the Dead Sea, Wadi Rum and Bethany Beyond Jordan. The most popular destination was the ancient city of Petra, to most of us probably best known for a scene in the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. More stunning visually in real life than on screen, Petra did not disappoint.
Listed as a World Heritage Site and proclaimed in 2007 to be one of the “New Seven Wonders of the World”; Petra boasts phenomenal architecture and statues which were cut into the side of sheer rock faces some two thousand years ago. The area was originally built by the Nabataeans, but came under the rule of the Romans, the Byzantines and the Umayyad before disappearing from Western civilisation until rediscovered in 1816.
Whist some took the opportunity to ride by camel or donkey through the Siq, the creviced entrance to the ancient Nabataean city, most were happy to wander along on foot, listening to the insights of the tour guide.
Visiting the Dead Sea was a unique experience for those who chose to travel the four hours drive North of Aqaba. At 422 metres below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest place on the Earth's surface. Its salinity is ten times that of an ocean which means swimmers float effortlessly on the surface. In fact it is almost impossible to dive down and touch the bottom. Most of us relished the opportunity to cover ourselves in thick black mud which, is highly regarded and sought after globally for its beauty and health enriching properties.
Tours to the Dead Sea also included the chance to visit 'Bethany Beyond the Jordan', the site where Jesus was believed to have been baptised by John the Baptist in the River Jordan. The site featured five church ruins at differing stages of excavation and indicates the geographical separation of two countries – just three metres between the countries of Jordan and Israel at some points.
Another area of almost mythical beauty was the area of Wadi Rum, a desert area known as the “Valley of the Moon”, located in the Southern part of Jordan. It gains its name from Wadi (one of the dry valleys) and Jebel Rum (the highest mountain in Jordan) and is home to local Bedouin people.
What makes this geographical wonder so special are unusual rock forms of granite and sandstone, and the vast desert which casts an array of colours throughout the day. Wadi Rum is perhaps best known in the modern era for its connection with T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) and his part during the Arab Revolt. It was also the site for filming of Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen in 2008.
The Ship's Company enjoyed their time in Aqaba, making the most of the coastline by swimming and snorkelling. With visibility which exceeded 25 metres, the perfect water temperature and an abundance of beautiful fish as well as coral, the snorkelling and diving is some of the best in the world.
Aqaba also offered an excellent range of local market places offering local handicrafts including silver, semiprecious jewellery and Dead Sea salts and beauty products. The visit to Jordan was enjoyed so much that many of our people hope they will get the opportunity to return again either with the Navy or on personal holidays.
